Buying a Quality Men's Suit

General suit characteristics

A man's suit is any clothing set of jacket and trousers in the same fabric and pattern. The original idea for suits was to divide the professional from the tradesman or laborer. While this is no longer true, occasions when a suit is necessary (called semi-formal events) are the important occasions: at the office, in church or court, weddings and funerals, and so on. In the 21st Century, these events are spread all across the spectrum from formal to causal, at the host's discretion, but a great many people still feel the need to dress up at certain times.

You can spend a huge amount on an extravagant, imported designer suit, or you can purchase a respectable suit for a very reasonable price. More than anything, getting a good deal means knowing where to shop in your neighborhood. Wherever you look, you can find a great suit if you know what to look for.

Jackets can be single-breasted (one line of buttons down the front with notched lapels) or double-breasted (1-3 working buttons on the right side with decorative buttons on the left with peaked lapels). There is no practical difference, although double-breasted suits are considered classier, much like the difference between regular cuffs and French-cuffs on dress shirts.

The vent is the split in the back of the jacket extending from about the waist to the lower hem. It makes it possible to sit on a chair without sitting on your jacket. Some suits aren't vented; a single-vented suit has the split in the middle, double-vented has one along each side seam of the jacket.

Trousers can be flat-front or pleated. The legs can be plain or cuffed; they can also fall straight, get narrower or flare out from the hip to the ankle. Again, there is no functional difference; this is purely a matter of personal preference. "Fashionistas" will tell you what's "in" and what's "out." Ignore them. Do not follow Hollywood or New York for style; set your own style and let others emulate you.

Beyond the jacket and trousers, suits have options: a vest (called a 3-piece suit) or a second pair or trousers (called a 2-pants suit). The vest is a fashion statement that comes and goes, usually they are out of fashion, meaning you can find them, but you have to look and you'll be in the minority wearing one. An extra pair of trousers is a great option because pants always wear out faster than jackets, but 2-pants suits have yet to catch on widely. Some stores offer suit separates--components that match but are not paired up. These are especially appropriate for the hard-to-fit man, the very tall or very short, very portly or very slender or otherwise out of the average proportions range.

What to look for and what to watch out for

Cheap fabric is the best way to discern a cheap suit. Pick a good fabric and you'll enjoy the suit long after the pain of paying for it is forgotten.

Wool

• Virgin wool is wool spun and woven straight from the sheep.
  
• Shoddy wool is recycled from existing weaves; never buy a shoddy suit.
  
• Worsted wool is a popular fabric woven from long fibers, combed yarn with a high thread count; the surface is clear and smooth, with a weave that's obvious to the naked eye.
  
• Wool flannel is woven in a tight twill or plain weave, napped on both sides for a very soft feel--almost as soft as cotton flannels. The "gray flannel suit" may have started as a movie title, but, if you can only afford one, this is an excellent choice.
  
• Three species provide such distinctive wool, they are rarely called wool: Mohair comes from the Angora goat. Angora is from the Angora rabbit. Cashmere is from the Kashmir sheep. You will pay a premium price for these luxurious fabrics. If you can afford them, you should indulge yourself.
  
• By the way, camel hair [usually used only in blazers] is actually from camels.

"Super 100" (also 120, 140, 150 & 180) refers to the length (in centimeters) one woolen yarn can be stretched; the longer the pull, the stronger and more durable the fabric. Becoming more popular in clothing, they are lighter weight, more lustrous and softer because of their tight weave.

If a pure wool suit is not in the budget, a well-made wool-blend (at least 50-percent wool) is almost as good; it's also lighter, cooler and less expensive; a practical compromise.

Other fabrics

There are several other fabric options available, some of which deserve little consideration:

The double-knit polyester leisure suits of the 1970s are a fashion nightmare from which some may never wake up. Today's polyesters are so much better than the previous decades, it is hardly fair to talk about them in the same paragraph. New generation polyester suits can look very good; they imitate wool so well, only a trained eye can see a difference. Polyester is generally not as durable and, in less expensive brands, will not look as good, but "polys" are perfectly acceptable as men's causal suits or everyday business suits. Shy away from polyester for the more formal events.

Silk is the premier clothing fabric, spun on the looms of the gods, according to legend. It is, fiber for fiber, stronger than steel and most would say it's softer than the finest wool. It is also the most expensive fabric and, in some respects, hardest to maintain. Silk blends well with linen, wool and even cotton, creating excellent menswear at prices comparable to good wool or wool-blends.

Linen is great for warm weather suits (also called tropical-weight suits); lighter weaves wrinkle easily, so keep them for evening or weekend, not the office. You may need to have them pressed after every wearing.

Cotton, another good warm weather fabric, is growing in popularity. Steer clear of seersucker (a weave with a puckered surface), unless you're Andy Griffith. These are often advertised as machine washable, but many haberdashers refuse to recommend washing any suit at home.

Corduroy and denim are fine as men's causal suits and very acceptable for some business wear, assuming you can find them.

Sizing

Few things stand out more than a badly fitting suit. A tape measure should be an essential tool when considering a suit purchase. The better clothing stores have tailors onsite who will alter a suit you didn't buy from them for a small fee. By the way, there is a difference between European and American suit cuts. As a general rule, Euro-fit is larger than the American.

Jacket size is based on chest measurement, with short, regular or long, depending on torso/arm length. For example, if your chest measures 44 inches and you shirt is 16x35 (16-inch neck and 35-inch sleeves) you'd probably wear a 44L suit. The end of the sleeves should come just to the wrist and be an inch or two shorter than your shirt sleeves. If a 32/33-inch shirt sleeve feels long, check suits in the short section. When buttoned, a suit jacket should feel snug, but not tight or restrictive to movement.

Suit sizes don't specify trouser size because of 'drop.' For example, a 42L suit usually has a 6-inch drop, meaning its trousers have a 36-inch waist. Drop varies by manufacturer, so be sure to ask. Good suits come unfinished (unhemmed), allowing for individual tailoring.

The best way to know if a suit will fit is to try everything on while wearing a dress shirt and shoes, just the way you'd wear it in public. Sounds unnecessarily obvious? If you are a truly average build with truly average proportions, it is, but most men aren't "properly" proportioned.

Caring for your suit

Buy men's suits that say 'Professionally dry clean only,' then get it professionally dry cleaned and pressed after every five or six wearings. Wash-n-wear polyester suits were a big thing in the 1970s, it was tried again a few years back. It never caught on.

If possible, you should buy one dress suit in solid black or navy blue, to be worn only on the most serious occasions--weddings, funerals, IRS audits, etc. Dry clean it after each use and store it in a garment bag.

Patterns and colors

Solids remain most popular, but several others are always stylish: Pin-stripes are almost unnoticeably thin; chalk-stripes are noticeable but not overwhelming; pencil stripes are very noticeable. These are vertical, which has the added advantage of slimming your figure, if you care about such things. Most stripes contrast the suit color, while "shadow stripes" are a different shade of the main color. Window pane suits have a two-tone check of pinstripes.

Herringbone are twills or tweeds with alternating diagonal weaves; a classic, less formal pattern that will probably never go out of style. Tartans or plaids work for some people, but too much is too much; a plaid blazer is a better choice.

Black, any dark blue and any medium to dark gray are the archetypal business suit colors. Light grays, tans, even white are fine in warm weather, especially more tropical climates. Browns and lighter blues are acceptable for most occasions. If you ever see someone wearing a green or purple suit, you will immediately understand why you should never wear one.

What makes it the right suit?

In addition to a good fit and quality material, there's only one real consideration--do you like what you see in the mirror? If so, it is the right suit. Take your time; try everything on; look yourself over with a critical eye; ask others' opinions, but don't be tied down by them. Pay what you must to get what you want, but never pay full retail! Wait for a sale, or better, hit the year-end clearances and outlet stores. You and your suit will be very happy together.